The pressure conditions in the different shore segments of a given coastline are today largely unknown in detail. It is one of SIC's objectives to continue to perform research in this specific field with relevant partners world wide.
Today, most studies of coast behaviour are based on the work of Ghyben Hertzberg, Grant, Glover and Todd, and their theories about water in coastal areas. It is generally accepted that, during the winter period, the main part of the rainwater flows into the sea in a narrow area outside the coastline.
The Erosion Process
On this basis it can be shown that the salt water in the swash zone percolates through the sand and runs back into the sea "on top" of the fresh water, which supports the erosion process together with the backrun of the salt water in the swash zone.
At the same time the local people tell us that they have never seen wider sand beaches.
Ansvarshavende : Poul Jakobsen, 9990 Skagen